It’s hiking season in Switzerland, and a yodel-like yahoo! escapes from my mouth at the very thought.
Taking advantage of a gorgeous Saturday earlier this month, Justin and I set off from Zurich to tackle our first Swiss mountain of the year. We chose to hike Mount Pilatus, the impressively rugged peak jutting up into the Lucerne skyline. Summiting Mount Pilatus is one of Central Switzerland’s main tourist attractions. With their incredible engineering skills, the Swiss have ensured that everyone can enjoy the amazing panoramic vistas from Pilatus Kulm.
A SWISS GHOST STORY
It is said that Mount Pilatus was named after Pontius Pilate, and it’s quite a marvelous ghost story. If you’re up for a good read, visit this Mount Pilatus webpage to learn the fabled fate of Pontius Pilate and how his ghost became a Swiss legend.
PILATUS KULM
Mount Pilatus peaks at 2132 meters (7000 ft) above sea level and rises 1697 meters (5572 ft) above Lucerne. That’s a fair amount of elevation gain, especially for a day’s worth of hiking! Both hikers and non-hikers are rewarded upon reaching Pilatus Kulm, which has two newly renovated hotels, restaurants, a tourist shop, and easily accessible lookout points to admire the surrounding Swiss landscape.
THE GOLDEN/SILVER ROUND TRIP
The most popular way to reach the top of Mount Pilatus is to embark on the Golden or Silver Round Trip. The Golden Round Trip begins with a ferry boat ride from Lucerne to Alpnachstad, while the Silver Round Trip starts with hopping on a local train (Zentralbahn) to Alpnachstad. From Alpnachstad, the Round Trip Route is the same.
In Alpnachstad, you can take a seat on the Pilatus Bahn, the steepest cogwheel train in the world that first opened in 1889, and ride all the way up to Pilatus Kulm. When you’re ready to descend, you then step onto the brand new aerial cableway, mythically named Dragon Ride, and fly down to the Fraekmuentegg station in minutes. By comparison, the Panoramic Gondola is a lazy float down to Kriens. The brief bus ride from Kriens to Lucerne signals the end of a majestic tour of mountainous glory.
Of course, you can start with the gondola from Kriens if you prefer to end your day with a boat tour over those gorgeous blue waters.
HIKING MOUNT PILATUS
For those who want extra physical challenge, hiking Mount Pilatus is a great day-hike for the average hiker. From Alpnachstad, two marked paths lead to Pilatus Kulm. The first trail via Aemsigen runs parallel to the train tracks, and the second trail via Luetoldsmatt swings wide around the southwestern base of Pilatus. The Aemsigen trail is steeper and more direct than the gentle climb of the Luetoldsmatt trail – at least, until they both meet at the base ridge of the Matthorn.
For easy hikes, the northern side of Pilatus has a number of great trials and other adventure attractions, such as a summer sled run and ropes course. Expert hikers can trek from Fraekmuentegg through the northern cliff valleys, but those technical climbs are for a select few… and I am not one of them!
THE DOMECKS TAKE A HIKE
Justin and I chose to hike from Alpnachstad to Pilatus Kulm via Luetoldsmatt. We started at Pilatus Bahn around 10:15am, walked above the village, crossed the southern base of the mountain, and passed through many Swiss farms along the way. Of course, we saw more cows and sheep than people, which made me quite happy. Have I ever mentioned how much I LOVE ALP COWS?!?! I was delighted to meet these fluffy creatures on the trail, especially when they came over to say hello and encouraged us to keep mooooooooooving on. #cowpuns
We kept up a steady pace along the farm roads, snacked next to a hidden waterfall oasis, and soaked up the sunshine. Without a cloud in the sky on this May day, it got very warm. Therefore, I can imagine that this path wouldn’t be so charming in the scorching summer heat, as this trail has little shade. [TIP – From what I’ve researched, I believe that the Aemsigen path does have more coverage, making it a contender on really hot hiking days.]
As we continued to gain elevation, we eventually traded cow patties for boulder fields. The peaks of Pilatus came into view, and paragliders drifted in and out of our horizon – which reminded me of our previous paragliding adventure. This Alpine world was truly stunning. Just pure rugged beauty.
On our last stretch of hike, delicate Alpine flowers dotting the green grass gave way to sturdy shrubs and patches of snow! We didn’t mind plodding through the snow, because we found the white slush to be a fun challenge.
And as we hiked through the snowscape, our target – Pilatus Kulm – came into view. Little did I know that the final ascent from the base ridge of the Matthorn would be extremely steep, mentally challenging, and a little bit scary! Surprisingly, the snow worked in our favor here, allowing us to hike directly up the mountain. However, when we crossed the exposed patches of grass at a 48% incline, I felt extremely uncomfortable, worried that I would slip and tumble down the mountain bowl. (Thankfully, that scenario stayed in my head and my imagination did not get the better of me.) Certainly, this section was the most difficult portion of our entire hike, and it is definitely not for the feint of heart.
Around 3:30pm, Justin and I made the final leap from the snow bank to the ledge of the observation deck on the second level. We were greeted by admiring tourists, which filled us with a mixture of pride, embarrassment, and a little annoyance. When one girl asked to take our picture, I was just mostly embarrassed. After dumping snow out of our boots and hanging our socks to dry, Justin and I took in the view as we enjoyed a couple of hard-earned beers and some victory snacks. Later on, Justin the Mountain Goat found ways to continue climbing around Pilatus Kulm.
For us, hiking Mount Pilatus was the perfect start to hiking season. We loved being in the Great Swiss Outdoors, and we had a great time accomplishing our weekend goal. However, we had no intention of hiking down Mount Pilatus. We gladly hopped on the Dragon Rider and the gondola to return as two tired but very happy hikers!
Hoi! How would you like to summit Mount Pilatus? Can you believe these mountains? Where in the world have you been when the scenery completely takes your breath away? Do you have any Swiss hikes to suggest?
UDAY KRISHNA says
Hello, I am from India and Impressed by the Mt Pilatus views and planning to visit next weekend. 15-16 june 2019. I am not very fit for difficult trek. But i prefer simple walk way to reach top, i can walk for 5 miles for sure. Can you please suggest simple and best path to Reach top ? And also i am trekking alone. Hope i can find people trekking and i am not lost with route. Thanks lot.
Hailey says
Welcome Uday! Thanks for leaving a comment. The hike up Pilatus from Alpnachstad gets VERY steep at the top. If you are uncomfortable with steep Alpine hikes with scree (very loose, gravel rock), then perhaps this is not the best hike for you. However, Mt. Rigi is another nearby mountain that has tons of good hiking – and you can go up or down! Check out the official Rigi website for more trail information. Trails in Switzerland are well marked, but it’s good to know where you want to go before you set off! Safe travels!
Kristoffer says
Thanks for your review and pictures! This is really helpful.
Are there any ‘free roam’ walks where we can just walk up the mountain a bit, find some grass and have a picnic? and enjoy the moment.
We will most likely do most of the activities across 2 days as we’re staying in Luzern :)
Hailey says
Hi Kristoffer!
Thanks for leaving a comment; I’m glad you found my article helpful.
If you didn’t want to hike all the way to the top, I suggest starting to walk up from Kriens. The incline isn’t very steep and there are tons of cow pastures and farmhouses along the way. You can stop and have a picnic anywhere!
Happy trails!
Gordon Dudgeon says
Luzern is my favourite destination in Switzerland, even surpassing Engelberg where I go skiing, hiking and now recently for Klettersteig. I head to both Luzern and Engelberg again in September. While in Luzerns I intend to go up Pilatus, as it is place in all these years I have never ventured. Hopefully Kriens Gondala then walk down to Hergiswil or Stansstaad. Then off to do Klettersteig in Engelberg.
I take it that you have been in Luzern for Dirty Thursday ? It is an amazing time, I felt incorrectly dressed when I was there, and wish that I had taken the advice and Fancy Dress costume that my Hotel owner had offered me.
Hailey says
Thanks for your comment, Gordon! Pilatus is definitely worth a visit… on a clear day, you can’t beat those views! I do know Switzerland has some unusual festivals, but I did not know about Lucerne’s “Dirty Thursday” – thanks for sharing!
Lachie says
Im going to be in Lucerne mid-may and would love to do this hike. I have mountain hiking experience but as I’m from Australia I have limited experience with snow. How many metres of your hike was in actual snow? Was it highly exposed? I won’t have poles but will try to get some gloves. Thanks for any information.
Hailey says
Hey Lachie! I just took a look on the Pilatus webcam (https://www.pilatus.ch/en/nc/live/) and it seems like there is less snow up top this May than when I did the hike a couple of years ago. I think you will be a-ok. Let me know how your adventure goes! Best wishes, H
Aaa says
Sounds lovely to hike up mount Pilatus. Do you remember how much it costs to catch the train back down (or gondola to kriens)? Thanks a lot
Hailey says
Here are all the transportation options and prices:
https://www.pilatus.ch/en/booking/prices/
Danny says
Hi,
This is really useful, I’ve bookmarked this article for future reference.
I’m planning a visit to Lucerne in May for 4 days, and planning to go up Pilatus is on the agenda. I’m a little worried that, as someone who’s physically fit but doesn’t hike too often, the five hour hike may prove a bit too much. What do you think.
Also, if you get tired at some point, is it possible to take the train for the rest of the way up?
If not, and I decide to do the Golden Round Trip, is it still worthwhile going up Pilatus? And how much does the Golden Round Trip cost?
Sorry for so many questions, and thanks in advance!
Hailey says
Hi Danny!
May is a great time to be in Switzerland! I hope you enjoy your trip to Lucerne.
Since you have four days there, you should definitely go to the top of Pilatus, preferably when the weather is nice. The views are excellent!
Since you said you’re not a big hiker and five hours might be too much, I wouldn’t recommend hiking to the top. From Alpnachstad, you can only catch the cog wheel train at the base station to go up… so there would be no way to get a lift if you got tired. However, if you were keen on doing some hiking, you can hike the northern base of Pilatus that begins at the gondola station at Kriens and then take the “Dragon Flyer” at Fräkigaudi to the very top. You can find the hikes listed here: https://www.pilatus.ch/en/discover/hiking-on-the-pilatus/
The Golden Round trip costs 99-120 CHF depending on your route and ticket class. Getting to the top of mountains in Switzerland is pricey, but if you have great weather, a lot of times it’s really worth it.
The Pilatus website does have a webcam that you could check out to make sure conditions at the top are ok. I’ve hiked and ridden to the top of Pilatus, and I do think it’s a great activity for visiting Lucerne!
Best wishes,
Hailey
Rebecca says
Hello, I’m enjoying reading your posts! So my family and I have a one day layover in Zurich from 8pm to 7pm the next day, in mid-January. My teens really want to see some snowy mountains! Could we do this trip in one day, do you think? It looks so beautiful! Any help would be appreciated!
Hailey says
Hi Rebecca!
Way to go for wanting to make the most of your layover in Zurich! I would say that to reach the top of Pilatus on your layover would be pushing it given your timetable. Lucerne is just over an hour away by train from the Zurich Airport, but the Pilatus Bahn is another 30 minutes from the Lucerne station.
To utilize your time in Zurich and still get some mountain air, you could go up Uetliberg, Zurich’s little mountain, an easy train ride from the main station. On clear days, you can see the big peaks of the Alps in addition to Lake Zurich and the city. It’s certainly not the same as Pilatus, but it would be a less stressful (and more realistic) activity.
I’ve got a post with suggestions on things to do in Zurich in the winter. I’m sure you can fill your day!
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Thanks!
Hailey says
Me again :) I’ve been thinking about your layover. If your family really really really really wanted to go to the top of Pilatus, it would be possible with an early start and a sharp eye on the clock to take a round trip up via the gondola/Dragon Rider. I’d say you’d want to be back down in Kriens around 15:15 to make sure you have plenty of unrushed time to get to the airport.
But another thing to consider is that the train from Zurich to Lucerne costs 60 CHF per person (round trip), and a round trip ticket for the Pilatus Bahn is also almost 60 CHF per adult, 30 CHF for kids up to 16 years old.
Again, I hope my experience is helpful to making your travel plans!
Best wishes!
Joe Marotta says
Enjoyed reading your post. My daughter and family live in Le Mont Sur Lausanne. We just visited with in October and we were able to spend one day with the family hiking . I’m thinking about our next trip next year and hiking to the top of Mt Pilatus.
As I write these comments, I am laying down with a splint on my right foot. This past Saturday while in the central coast of California I met up with a hiking accident which involved a tumble down an embankment off the trail, which resulted in two broken bones and a torn ligament. They operate on Friday. The only reason why I mention this I’m a little concerned about the last steep stretch to the summit. I guess I’m a little gun shy now about falls. Hopefully that will pass when I’m healed.
Hailey says
Hi Joe – it’s lovely that you have family in one of the prettiest regions of Switzerland. I’m sure you enjoy visiting!
I’m sorry to hear about your accident, and I do hope you recover well. After such an experience, I can imagine that you would be a bit wary about future hikes. As far as route up Pilatus we did, it’s a long, but fairly easy hike with a steady, slow incline until you reach that last bowl. If you do it later in the summer without snow, I believe there is a footpath marked that would probably make it less scary. We couldn’t find the path in the snow, and so we very well could have been making it harder for ourselves than was necessary. However, the south-facing side is easier than the top ascent on the north face. If you have hiking poles, are recovered fully, and take it slow, you will probably manage just fine.
Of course, the nice thing about Pilatus is that you don’t have to hike to reach the top!
Take care and let me know if you have any more questions.
Warm regards from snowy Switzerland, H
Ida says
Amazing! It looks absolutely beautiful. <3
Hailey says
Thanks, Ida! I think I hear Switzerland calling your name! ;-)