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January 14, 2015 By Hailey

A Look at Lisbon

Lisbon maintains an air of Old World charm, a shadow of a bygone era when Portuguese sailors bravely explored oceans and lands around the globe. Unlike many of Europe’s impeccable capital cities, Lisbon is more like a crusty oyster than a porcelain vase, unpolished and rough around the edges, and waiting to be cracked open by those seeking hidden pearls instead of fine china. Yet, this sentinel of the Iberian Peninsula is no longer overlooked by travelers on their way to London, Paris or Rome – as was the case for many years. The secret is out: Lisboa is a treasured destination worthy of exploration.

Lisbon Tram
Lisbon buildings
Lisbon cafe Nicola

Stationed at the mouth of the Tagus River (that’s Rio Tejo in Portuguese and Río Tajo in Spanish), this bustling port city is teeming with activity. The famously rickety trams clamor through the cobblestone streets.  Tables and chairs sprawl across sidewalks so locals and visitors alike can enjoy a pastry, coffee or fried fish sandwich. Vendors selling antique trinkets line the arcade of the Augusta Arc near the expansive public square, Praça do Comércio. Without a doubt, there is much to take in when wandering through the streets of Lisbon.

DISCOVERING LISBON BY BAIRRO

Sometimes referred to by locals as A Cidade das Sete Colinas, the City of Seven Hills is an urban landscape divided into districts (bairros), each with its own distinct personality and compelling attractions. Visitors can take in the multilayered history of the oldest city in Western Europe by traversing a few of the colorful bairros de Lisboa on foot.

Se Cathedral Lisbon

BAIXA
Located in the heart of Lisbon, plazas open up to feature fountains and statues of Portuguese politicians and poets. Cafes, shops, businesses, hotels, and restaurants – it’s all here. In Baixa.

Lisbon street
Lisbon tram

The city plan and architecture seen today was designed in part by the Marquês de Pombal, Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, who led the reconstruction efforts after a catastrophic earthquake, tidal wave and fire outbreak turned Lisbon into rubble in 1755. Thanks to the Marquês, you can amble down the pedestrian-only Rua Augusta and shop on Silver Street. And it goes without saying that you can not visit Lisbon without walking over the patterned pavers of Baixa.

ALFAMA
Unphased by the natural disasters of 1755, the Alfama is a preserved piece of history, characterized by narrow, winding streets and fading displays of azulejo artwork, a technique mastered by the Portuguese centuries ago. If you can’t get enough of the colorful tile-work, make sure to visit The National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo), which houses an impressive collection of Portuguese azulejos.

Lisbon azulejo

Over the ages, the Alfama was the residential area for Romans, Jews, Moors, and, later on, the poor fisherman and working class. Today, this bairro is a paradox, simultaneously antiquated and hopelessly modernized.

Lisbon rooftop
Lisbon building

Standing guard over the city, El Castelo St. Jorge is the crown of the Alfama district and provides visitors with a spectacular panorama of the city and waterways. March across the castle ramparts and then linger on this lookout to soak up the afternoon sun while admiring the amazing views. It is certainly worth the hike!

Lisbon overlook

Quando o fado era cantado
Pelas tabernas d’ Alfama
Ninguém diria que o fao,
Viesse a ter tanta fama

In this part of the city, you may hear forlorn female vocals waft through the air to the tune of a precisely picked Portuguese guitar, a musical tradition known as fado. Come to the Alfama to dine on dishes of bacalhau and watch expert musicians strum away the evening hours.

Meia noite e uma guitarra
Meia vida por viver
E a saudade que se agarra
Ao canta de uma mulher

CHIADO + BAIRRO ALTO
Both Chiado and Bairro Alto represent the contemporary and alternative undercurrent to the city’s heartbeat. Chaido is the lively locale for global-brand shopping and theatrical performances. Bairro Alto is particularly famous for waking up when the rest of the city goes to sleep. Venture here for a night out on the town where the bars are so packed that people simply take the party to the streets. 

Lisbon music posters

As is the case with many large cities, be aware of your surroundings at night – for Lisbon does have a seedy side. In fact, don’t be surprised if you are approached on the street and offered an illegal substance.

BELÉM
West of the city center are some of Lisbon’s most famous monuments, museums, and historical points of interest. Recall the age of explorers to the New World as you admire the Pradrão dos Descobrimentos (Discovery Monument) and the view of the waterways from the upper wall of the Torre de Belém.

Discovery Monument
Torre de Belem

Next, turn your thoughts inward as you slowly stroll through the prestigious and historic Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Inside the complex, seek refuge in the two-story cloister which showcases a magnificent example of Manueline architecture.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Monastery of Jerónimos
Jerónimos architecture

Just down the street from the colossal cathedral and monastery is the National Coach Museum (Museu Nacional dos Coches), home to a large collection of the royal rides. If antique carriages don’t pique your interest, do make sure to try the famous custard tarts from the long-established Pasteis de Belém café before leaving Belém. The recipe for these golden delights is a well-guarded secret and a national treasure.

Lisbon pastry shop
Woman in window

A Day Trip to Sintra
While there is much more to see and do in Lisbon, remove yourself from the city clamor for a day to enjoy stunning national parks and charming towns. Less than an hour by train and tucked away in a lush valley, the quaint village of Sintra is an excellent place to uncover more Portuguese gems.

Sintra

Just a 10 minute walk from the train station sits the Palácio Nacional de Sintra. This small but pleasant palace is full of Portuguese particulars and – you guessed it – beautifully tiled walls.

Sintra Palace
Palácio Nacional de Sintra

If you are pressed for time, pass by this palácio and immediately catch the 434 Bus up the mountainside. Before moving on to the next royal residence, first enter the ruins of the Castelo dos Mouros, a 10th century fortress. Climb the stone steps up to the castle turrets for incredible panoramic views. Or, as my experience would have it, enjoy the sense of mystery and imagination through the thick clouds of grey.

Castelo dos Mouros

Only a few hundred meters uphill from the Moorish Castle lie the Parque de Pena and Palácio da Pena, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The 19th century palace is almost comical in appearance with its bright yellow and red exterior and a myriad of architectural styles. Along with the aforementioned Jerónimos Monastery and Torre de Belém, the Palácio da Pena is one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal… and wonder you will at this quirky mansion.

Pena Palace exterior

Where to Stay in Lisbon
If you only have a few days to get acquainted with Portugal’s capital city, staying in or near the Baixa district is ideal, where lodging options are numerous and varied. To start, look for accommodation in or around the Praça do Rossio as it is centrally located to a walking-heavy itinerary.

For budget travelers, I recommend the Rossio Hostel, a top-notch establishment and one of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed in. The staff is welcoming, friendly and cooks up a fabulous breakfast. For a more romantic setting, try the Rossio Garden Hotel, a newly refurbished boutique hotel, and let me know what you think!

Praça do Rossio

Love for Lisboa
Special thanks to Yadira Perez Rike for sharing some of her beautiful photos from our awesome weekend in Lisbon. All images were taken either by me or Yadira.


Hey readers! Have you ever visited Lisbon? If so, what did you enjoy about “The White City?” What was your favorite neighborhood? What do you want to share about Lisbon? If you haven’t visited the Portuguese capital yet, is it on your list now?

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  1. Hailey says

    January 15, 2015 at 2:21 pm

    Hey readers! If you enjoyed this visual tour of Lisbon, take 20 minutes for an audio discussion between Travel Guru Rick Steves and two local Lisbon tour guides. It’s a great conversation:
    https://soundcloud.com/rick-steves-audio-europe/lisbon-city-guide-audio-europe

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Hailey Domeck is a Southern girl with a Spanish heart and Swiss soul.

As a wife, mom, and travel addict, her love for mountains, fairy-tales, and great food keep her mind and heart always on the lookout for the next great adventure.

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💫 2020 - not about travel; all about family. 💫

#littleAlpenRose #WaveyBow
For me, this year was all about #motherhood - the For me, this year was all about #motherhood - the beauty of growing a child in the womb and then nurturing a precious newborn around the clock; the wild roller coaster of shepherding a toddler, whose contagious joy and  stubborn defiance make each day a challenge and a gift; the mundane tasks that help make a home feel warm and welcoming; and a bunch of other things. 

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#littleAlpenRose #WaveyBow
📷: @whitneykeilman
Merry Christmas, y’all! 🤍 No matter your circ Merry Christmas, y’all! 🤍 No matter your circumstances, may you experience JOY in this holiday season and have HOPE  for a brighter year ahead. 

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#littleAlpenRose #WaveyBow 

📷: @whitneykeilman
• T H A N K F U L • We are saying thanks for • T H A N K F U L • 

We are saying thanks for all things in life this week. It’s so easy to get stuck on either the big picture or the tiny details, but I believe it’s important to take it all in - like I did on this ridge overlooking #Manang Village last year while trekking the #AnnapurnaCircuit in #Nepal. 

Creating a culture of gratitude takes intentionality and discipline... and it’s especially not easy when babies and toddlers demand so much of you at all hours of the day and night. Yet, here we are at the start of the holiday season, and I’m choosing to be grateful for the whole lot. 

What are you thankful for this year?
Hooray, it’s the weekend! 🥳 I don’t have a Hooray, it’s the weekend! 🥳

I don’t have any big plans today (#newbornlife), but I’m recalling the joy of “Heidi Hailey” in the Himalayas last November. ☺️ Shout out to @thatdutchieguy for bringing his Polaroid camera on our #CreateConnectNepal journey... what a fun way to capture special moments, - like my favorite stretch of the #AnnapurnaCircuit in the #Manang District ❣️

What are you up to this weekend?
As I sit here nursing an 8-week old babe, it’s j As I sit here nursing an 8-week old babe, it’s just wild to me that on this date exactly one year ago, I was walking among giants and completed the most difficult hike of my life. 

On November 11, 2019, the #CreateConnectNepal team and I went up and over the Thorong La Pass. At 17,769 feet (5416m), this is the pinnacle of the Annapurna Circuit and one of the highest mountain passes in the world. The day began in the dark with a grueling 4+ hour ascent through snow-kissed trails and then required a fierce descent down a bone dry valley. It demanded everything of me. 

Yet, that day up and over Thorong La was just one part of my epic adventure in #Nepal last November. I am eternally grateful for that experience and cherish those memories dearly. I also miss those people a lot. ❣️
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